Exploring the Eyre Peninsula

 

Wow it feels like such a long time since I last sat down to write a post about my travels. I planned on making the Eyre Peninsula the next topic but first we had to finish that leg of the trip and then I needed to collate the images. As I write this we have been taking a week off from travelling to relax for a bit in the Adelaide area. We ditched the confines of our caravan for a little luxury and rented an apartment on the marina in North Haven. This week photography has taken a back seat and I’ve played tourist as much as possible. From Adelaide Zoo and Haigh’s Chocolate Factory to the Barossa Valley and the Adelaide Hills…my stomach has grown and my wallet has shrunk :) I digress however… onward to the topic for this month’s post!

Looking down from the cliffs at Leo Cummings Lookout (west coast)

Looking down from the cliffs at Leo Cummings Lookout (west coast)

This post will be a brief overview of our journey around the peninsula and will mainly serve as a photographic journal however I will post relevant info for all locations we visited. The scenery along the coastal drive is simply spectacular and extremely varied between the east and west coasts.

There are a number of ways to explore this beautiful piece of South Australia however we decided to skirt around the outside, leaving from Port Augusta and heading across the top of the peninsula to Ceduna. The drive across is about 470km and you could drive it all in one go however you would miss some interesting places along the way. The highlight for me in this area was Pildappa Rock which is about 15km north-east of Minnipa. The rock itself is a large, isolated granite inselberg. Some locals say that the spectacular wave-like formation rivals Wave Rock in Western Australia.

Ceduna was our next stop and we opted for the semi-remote Wittelbee Conservation Reserve to park our van for a few days. Despite having no facilities, the completely serene environment makes up for it. We had a perfect campsite overlooking the surf and limestone cliffs and we honestly didn’t see another person the whole time we were there. Our only visitors were a large number of cormorants that frequented the sun soaked rocks and a friendly seal that we spotted numerous times. We even caught him napping in the water!

Another 100kms down the coast and we came to my son’s favourite spot, Streaky Bay. There are a great many points of interest in this area all within a days driving distance. My pick of them all was popular surf beach ‘The Granites’. It is a great place to spend the day with sheltered swimming areas for the kids and the beach itself is covered in granite outcrops that stretch as far as the eye can see. It is also the perfect place to photograph at sunset.

The Granites, Streaky Bay

The Granites, Streaky Bay

Some of the other must see places in this area are:

  • Cape Bauer: Take the loop road for an awesome drive along a scenic section of coast with numerous areas for photo opportunities.
  • Yanerbie Sandhills
  • The sea lion colony at Point Labatt Conservation Reserve

Another location that is within easy driving distance from Streaky Bay is Murphy's Haystacks. These Stonehenge-like, natural rock formations are also inselbergs just like Pildappa Rock. These uniquely shaped granite boulders are located 40kms south-east of Streaky Bay. There are a number of small groups of these in the area right in the middle of a farmers field! 

Their name originated when a traveller in a coach saw the formation from a distance. He thought the mounds to be bales of hay and he asked how a farmer could produce so much. As the farm was on a property owned by a man called Murphy, the rocks became known as Murphy's Haystacks.

The property owner allows self contained travellers to camp there for the night for a small fee of $10. Well worth the money as it allows you to be there to capture both sunrise and sunset. The farmer also produces his own honey and it is for sale there with an honesty box for payment. Do yourself a favour and pick up a bottle (or two) as it is the best you will ever taste!

Sunset @ Murphy's Haystacks

Sunset @ Murphy's Haystacks

There are a number of small fishing villages along the west coast that also warrant a visit. We unfortunately didn't have to time to stay but we did manage a walk down to the awesome Talia Caves and a sunset at Venus Bay.

One of the most epic lookouts we came across during this part of the trip was Leo Cummings Lookout. This location is right on the Flinders Highway as you drive approximately 20kms south of Sheringa. The cliffs are a sheer drop down to the raging surf below. We had to endure a passing storm and a spot of hail while we were there but waiting around paid off as I was able to get some really nice shots. While there I also met a couple of mad-keen bodyboarders who were making their way down the cliffs to catch some of the massive waves. Being the daring adventurer that I am, I opted to remain on the cliff top and grab some shots of them with my Sigma 600mm lens.

Awesome layering in the cliff face along with a lone sea stack at Leo Cummings Lookout.

Awesome layering in the cliff face along with a lone sea stack at Leo Cummings Lookout.

How epic are those cliffs! @ Leo Cummings Lookout

How epic are those cliffs! @ Leo Cummings Lookout

Now while we also visited Port Lincoln, I had a couple of days off from taking photos so I don't have much to show for our time there. It was however a beautiful area with some of the best seafood I have ever tasted c/o The Fresh Fish Place. It is also worth visiting the Lincoln National Park and Whalers Way.

Next port of call was a fantastic little spot called Lipson Cove. Lipson Cove is on the eastern side of Eyre Peninsula halfway between Tumby Bayand Port Neil. The beach is pure white silica sand surrounded by the clearest, blue water I have ever seen! It even made the list of 101 Best Beaches in Australia. It is easy to see why!

The final stop on our road trip was the lighthouse at Point Lowly, 30 mins north-east of Whyalla on the east coast.

The Point Lowly lighthouse was built in 1883 to guide ships on their way to Port Augusta and Port Pirie in South Australia. It was deactivated in 1993, however in 1995 it was turned back on as a tourist attraction.

The timber remnants of an old jetty @ Lipson Cove

The timber remnants of an old jetty @ Lipson Cove

Blue hour @ Point Lowly

Blue hour @ Point Lowly

Sunrise from Point Lowly

Sunrise from Point Lowly

So as you may have noticed, there are many locations that don't feature in my post as we unfortunately didn't get a chance to explore them all (gotta save something for next time). To experience all the wonders that the Eyre Peninsula has to offer I would recommend taking at least 3 weeks as it is a surprisingly big place. We only allowed 2 weeks and that is just covering select locations along the coast.

Hopefully this information is of some use to those of you reading this and if you would like further insight into what the Eyre Peninsula has to offer check out www.southaustralia.com and www.eyrepeninsula.com

 

Exploring the Flinders Ranges

 

When you are travelling to a well known location like the Flinders Ranges, it is easy to have preconceived ideas and images in your head about what the experience will be like. I had heard stories from friends and family about how awesome it was and I’d seen the occasional image come across my Instagram feed (mainly from amazing South Australian photographer, Ben Goode) so I thought I knew what was in store for us when we got there.

I was so wrong!

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I don’t think anything could have prepared me for the beautiful vistas and sheer vastness of the Flinders Ranges. This is not just a small mountain range that goes for a few kilometres…this baby is of epic proportions! It stretches for over 430kms and is the largest mountain range in South Australia. To top it all off, they have had quite a wet, ‘dry season’ which has turned the arid landscape into all shades of green.

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We drove up from Hawker in the south and by this point we had already been impressed by the southern parts of the range that are easily viewable from the highway and seem to follow you everywhere you go. When we started making our way north the landscape slowly changed from farm land to undulating hills with dry creeks lined by beautifully gnarled gum trees.

Getting closer we drove past a number of lookout points just off the highway. I highly recommend stopping in along the way as these viewpoints not only give you a moment to pause from the drive to better appreciate what you are seeing, but from a photography perspective it gives you possible locations to return to later at either sunrise or sunset when the light is right.

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It’s at this point that the landscape takes it up a notch. The open areas close in on all sides to become cypress-pine forests and the cliff edges of Wilpena Pound tower down from above. The first thing that came to mind was that somehow we had been transported to a national park in the United States as this was definitely not a sight that I was used to being from Central Queensland.

The destination for our stay in the Flinders Ranges was Wilpena Pound Resort (and before you ask… no we haven’t ditched our caravan in favour of glamping). We shacked up in the campground area at the back of the resort and apart from the modern amenities, it was just like camping in the bush. It has ample space and there are no site allocations so you can setup pretty much anywhere you want.

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Wilpena Pound itself is a large, crater-shaped natural amphitheatre that covers approximately 80 square kilometres. To get a view over the entire area it is best seen from the air (scenic flights are available at the resort) or St Mary Peak which is the range’s highest point (1,171m). 

We found the resort to be the perfect location to use as a base with most other things to see and do being within easy driving distance for day trips. Walks into Wilpena Pound can take from 1 hour return, to full day hikes ranging in difficulty to suit a variety of fitness levels. If you are travelling with school age children, I would recommend trying the walk to the upper Wangara Lookout (3.5hrs/7.8kms return). It was an easy grade hike with a steeper climb towards the end. From here the view into the valley is beautiful and a perfect location to stop for lunch.

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Other points of interest in the area that are definitely worth checking out are the Cazneaux Tree, Hucks Lookout, Stokes Hill Lookout and Bunyeroo Gorge. The road itself to Bunyeroo Gorge has two lookouts worth stopping at. Especially the Razorback Lookout which I found to be perfect for sunset. 

The drive in was teeming with wildlife such as the red and western grey kangaroos, the yellow-footed rock wallaby and emus. My Sigma 600mm lenscertainly came in handy on this drive and it was easy to capture some great images straight out the car window. I wouldn't recommend getting out to take any shots as it just tends to scare them away. They appear to be fairly used to cars and mostly stayed still so long as you were driving slow.

There is so much to see and do in the area that you will definitely want to stay at least 3 days minimum. Especially since the hike to St Mary Peak is an entire day in itself just to get up and back. There are many places that we didn’t get chance to see so hopefully we will make it back one day. Also if you end up camping at Wilpena Pound, be sure to take the short walk to the top of the hill at the back of the campground. It has 360 degree views of the surrounding area and is perfect for watching the sunrise/sunset.

The Flinders Ranges National Park is open all year round however some seasonal closures may occur during the summer months (check with National Parks South Australia for details). The best time to visit is in the cooler months from April to October. A Park Pass is required to access Flinders Ranges National Park. Fees can be paid in the self registration stations throughout the park or at the Wilpena Pound Visitor Information Centre. 

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or more information on the Flinders Ranges or Wilpena Pound go to www.southaustralia.com and www.wilpenapound.com.au

 

Minerva Hills National Park

 

Springsure is a friendly little town approximately 67km south of Emerald along the Gregory Highway in Queensland’s Capricorn region. While this is a well known location on the annual grey nomad northern pilgrimage trail, I wonder how many are aware that there is an amazing natural wonder hiding right on Springsure’s doorstep.

Virgin Rock as seen from Lions Park

Virgin Rock as seen from Lions Park

It is hard to miss the spectacular Virgin Rock and Mount Zamia which dominate the horizon as you head into the valley surrounding Springsure. The Virgin Rock has a naturally formed likeness to the Virgin Mary and Child however in recent years the image is harder to see. The cliffs are floodlit at night and really make for a spectacular scene. The best area to view the cliffs are from Lions Park approximately 4km north from Springsure.

Spotlights on Virgin Rock and Mount Zamia are stunning at night!

Spotlights on Virgin Rock and Mount Zamia are stunning at night!

I highly recommend viewing Virgin Rock from the common vantage point along the highway, however the area that I am keen to tell you about is situated just on the other side of these monoliths. 

Minerva Hills National Park is relatively small, but the perfect location for a weekend adventure. Whilst it is accessible to most vehicles, the road (which is unsealed) is rough in some areas and you may require a car with extra clearance. Our last visit was after recent rain and there was mud in places that may pose an issue if you are not in a 4WD. That however is all part of the fun!

Sunset over the valley and tablelands as seen from the top of one of the many small hills throughout the park

Sunset over the valley and tablelands as seen from the top of one of the many small hills throughout the park

I get the impression that this national park is not very well known to travellers because during the last few times that I have visited, I had that place all to myself. Now I’m certainly not complaining as I really enjoy the solitude when photographing a place like this but I can’t help but wonder how many tourists drive straight past without realising what they are missing. 

Signage to the park is pretty much none existent and even the entrance is a blink and you’ll miss it situation. Access is via the Dawson Developmental Road which heads west out of Springsure. The turn off is approximately 4km from town.

Fred's Gorge

Fred's Gorge

Once you enter the national park you slowly make your way up and around through an interesting landscape of hills and valleys with rocky ground and sparse bushland. There is one main road through the park with a number of smaller trails/walking tracks/points of interest along the way. My recommendations to check out are Fred’s Gorge Lookout/ Picnic Area, Skyline Lookout and Eclipse Gap.

Sunrise from the Eclipse Lookout

Sunrise from the Eclipse Lookout

Fred’s Gorge is a great area to stop for lunch with picnic tables, barbecues and toilets available. Eclipse Lookout is by far the most easily accessible as you can drive right up to the edge of the valley and for one view to rule them all, you simply cannot go past Skyline Lookout. At the base of the walk there is a small car park followed by a moderate grade 800m track to some amazing views over the valley and Springsure. We were there at sunset however this one would be perfect to catch the morning sun peaking into the valley.

Gorgeous sunset views along the walk to the Skyline Lookout

Gorgeous sunset views along the walk to the Skyline Lookout

Wildlife to watch out for range from eastern grey kangaroos, wallaroos and wallabies (we came across plenty of these little guys) to nocturnal critters such as the sugar-glider and the larger greater-glider. 

If you are travelling through this part of the world on your way to Carnarvon Gorge or heading north, it is well worth the extra night in Springsure to check it out. All you need to take with you is a picnic lunch, your hiking boots and a sense of adventure.

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Welcome to the Outback

 

We have officially been on the road now for a whole week and despite having some wet weather in the latter half, the first half was absolutely glorious. 

Redbank Park, Jericho

Our first stop was Redbank Park in Jericho which is a very relaxing location just off the Capricorn Highway. You can camp right on the banks of the creek that runs through the park and kick back in the shade with a cool drink while the sun goes down. It is a great spot to spend a few days doing pretty much nothing. While there is no cost to stay at the park, gold coin donations are appreciated and absolutely essential to keeping gems like this open to weary travellers. The Jericho State School also runs a pancakes and sausage breakfast every Sunday morning at the park which is another way to support the local community while you are passing through.

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Barcaldine

After leaving Jericho, we drove all of 90 kms down the road to Barcaldine to check out the famed Tree of Knowledge. As I’m sure you already know, the Tree of Knowledge was a tree in Barcaldine which is regarded as the birthplace of the Australian Labor Party and the Union movement. Unfortunately the tree was poisoned in an act of vandalism in 2006. The remains of the original tree are preserved in a spectacular, award winning memorial on the site, with the architectural beauty being best viewed at night where the tree is lit up with coloured lights. Look closely at the base and you can even see the remnants of the roots below the transparent tiles!

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Lara Wetlands

My favourite part of this week though was our night at Lara Wetlands. Lara Wetlands is 28kms south of Barcaldine just off the Landsborough Highway. After leaving the highway at the turnoff, there is a final 13kms of graded dirt road. This part of the road can be corrugated in places but overall is quite good and it is definitely 2WD accessible. The wetlands are home to an abundant array of birds and wildlife and camping sites are available for rigs of all sizes. Toilets and hot showers are available with access to drinkable artesian water, however the sites do not have power.

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Included in the nightly rates are full use of kayaks for exploring the lagoon, children's playground, camp kitchen and a thermal controlled artesian mineral hot pool (perfect for warming up during those cool evenings)! The wetlands are a paradise for wildlife and landscape photographers, so needless to say I took advantage of every moment to grab shots around the lagoon. Sunrise and sunset provide beautiful reflections over the water and I had a great time testing out my new Nisi 10 stop ND filter. After sunrise, I spent an hour or so capturing the abundant birdlife with my Sigma 600mm lens. My only regret from our time at Lara Wetlands was that we didn’t stay longer. We left after one night to avoid the incoming rain deluge however it as it turns out, we would have been safe after all.

Winton

It would unfortunately be the second part of our week in the small town of Winton where we would encounter the rain. This prevented us from visiting the two main attractions of Lark Quarry and the Australian Age of Dinosaurs Museum (currently only accessible by dirt road and the roads became impassible). Fortunately for us, the team at the Age of Dinosaurs Museum had a contingency plan and very generously brought a mobile fossil display in to the Winton Visitor Information Centre. Nice work guys! 

Another bonus is that Winton isn’t a long drive from Rockhampton, so I am certain we will return during more favourable weather. 

Well that’s all for our first week. I had originally planned to just focus on Lara Wetlands for this post but once I started typing, I found myself including everything. Future blog entries though may only cover one destination per post. I’m just going to wing it at this stage and see what works best :) 

Next week we will be slowly making our way back towards Emerald in the lead up to a shoot I have scheduled at Carnarvon Gorge (weather permitting). 

I can’t wait!

 

Time to Hit the Road

 

This will probably be my last sunset down at Yeppoon for quite a while.

As some of you may know, I will be taking a step back from my current job to travel Australia with my family. I have discovered since falling in love with photography, a deep yearning to travel and explore more of our beautiful country.

Whilst I have appreciated the amazing scenery we have here in this region, the rest of Australia is quite stunning as well (who knew), and I can't wait to get out there and start photographing it. 

My very understanding wife and children will be coming along for the ride and I'm sure this trip will be an amazing bonding experience for us all. Close proximity with 2 boisterous children for 6 months, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week in a caravan....what could go wrong :)

Check out our mobile abode in the image below.

We conducted significant research on caravans/mobile homes in the lead up to this trip and we eventually decided to go with an 2016 Adria Altea. Adria caravans are a European make and design and have won numerous awards throughout their long history. While it is not as large as some of it's Australian made counterparts, it suits our needs perfectly and has made our recent long weekend jaunts very comfortable.

I will be regularly posting to all of my social channels and here on my blog so please feel free to continue following my page to keep up to date with photography tips, reviews and destination write ups from our travels.

See you out on the road!